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Thursday, November 29, 2012

Maximise Space Using A Pocket Door For Bathroom Entryway


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Nobody complains about having too much space in the master bedroom or bathroom. By installing a pocket door for bathroom privacy is a great way to gain precious space too.
Installation of new, easy gliding, silent bathroom pocket door hardware is fairly easy for the handy DIY homeowner, but an experienced handyman or door installer will craft excellent results while you go off and do what you're good at.
If you've never tackled a pocket door hardware refurbish project, you should know how involved the project is so you can decide if you have the time, tools, and skills needed to complete a reasonably professional looking job.
First, you need to remove the door stops - these are the strips of wood that help contain the door and help stop it from running off its rail. A utility knife is helpful for cutting the paint so pieces remove, are usable later on. Once all of the door stops and the molding are removed along the top of the old pocket door frame, you can tilt and lift the door out of its track.
Now you're ready to remove the flimsy worn old rail hardware and replace it with the new roller track hardware. Replacing the rail often requires opening up the wall space - that means carefully cutting out a section of drywall to get to the hardware inside the wall.
Once the old rail is removed, you can install the new rail. But this would be a good time to fix any alignment problems when the door was closed. Settling is a common cause of alignment door problems, and often times, the rail simply is higher on one end of its travel than the other. A simple piece of wood shim material is all that is needed to make the rail level again. Using your level, estimate how thick a shim you will need, and tack the shim in place. Then mount the rail with just a couple screws - recheck for level and finish setting all the screws when level.
Next, you just attach the new rollers to the door according to their instructions and hang the door on the rail - resting on the floor at this point. Use more shim material to space the bottom of the door about 1/4 inch off the floor. Tighten down the rollers to lock them in place and adjust the height of the rollers to eliminate any remaining gap along the jam where the door close against the stop.
Finally, replace the bits of trim, stops, and molding that you carefully removed in the beginning, and you're done! Oh, but then there's that big hole in the wall. Well that's not as bad as it looks either.
There should be plenty of room inside the pocket wall to use thin strips of wood (or unused shim) with short drywall screws to attach the strips to the inside of the drywall hole, forming a frame. Then the piece of drywall you cut out should fit nicely into the frame and use more short drywall screws to attach the cutout to the wood strips.
The resulting patch is strong. Putty over the seam and screw heads with compound and make flush using a putty knife.
There's a lot of information presented here that might seem overwhelming, but it's really not. Any DIY person can install a pocket door for bathroom space increase and save money too. Some real life examples with pictures are here: http://kitchen-remodeling-pictures.com/bathroom-remodel/before-pictures/bathroom-pocket-door.htm
Article Source: http://ezinearticles.com/?Maximise-Space-Using-A-Pocket-Door-For-Bathroom-Entryway&id=6725100




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